{
 "id": "80-series",
 "vehicle": "80 Series Land Cruiser",
 "covers": "FZJ80 (1993–1997 US, 1FZ-FE), Lexus LX 450 (1996–1997), FJ80 (1991–1992 US, 3F-E). Engine checks assume the 1FZ-FE unless noted.",
 "updated": "2026-10-15",
 "disclaimer": "General guidance from owner experience. Confirm torque specs, fluid capacities and procedures in the factory service manual. Brakes, steering and anything structural: if in doubt, have a qualified shop inspect it before driving.",
 "systems": [
  "Cooling",
  "Engine",
  "Starting & Charging",
  "Fuel & Ignition",
  "Drivetrain",
  "Front Axle",
  "Steering & Suspension",
  "Brakes",
  "Transmission",
  "Body & Electrical"
 ],
 "symptoms": [
  {
   "id": "overheating",
   "title": "Temperature climbs when towing, climbing or on hot days",
   "system": "Cooling",
   "keywords": [
    "overheat",
    "overheating",
    "temp gauge",
    "hot",
    "running hot",
    "temperature",
    "climbing",
    "towing",
    "fan"
   ],
   "summary": "The 80 runs a big cooling system that is marginal once it ages. Most climbing temps come down to coolant loss, a tired fan clutch or a partly clogged radiator before anything serious.",
   "safety": "Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine. Pull over and let it cool if the needle passes three-quarters.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Coolant level and visible leaks",
     "how": "Cold engine: check the radiator (not just the overflow bottle). Look for wet spots or crust at the heater hoses at the back of the head, the rear heater lines along the frame, the water pump weep hole and the lower radiator hose.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fan clutch",
     "how": "Engine off and cold, spin the fan by hand: it should turn with light, even drag. Hot engine, shortly after shutdown: it should resist noticeably. A fan that freewheels hot is a common cause of climbing temps at low speed.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Radiator flow and fins",
     "how": "Check for bent or packed fins, then feel the radiator face on a warm engine for cold spots that suggest blocked tubes. Older original radiators are a frequent culprit.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Thermostat",
     "how": "Upper hose should get hot quickly once the engine reaches temperature. Slow warm-up or erratic temps point at the thermostat. Use an OEM-spec part.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Combustion gases in the coolant",
     "how": "Only after the above: bubbles in the overflow, unexplained coolant loss or sweet exhaust smell call for a chemical block test. See the head gasket entry.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine Guide: Specs, Upgrades & Why It's Legendary",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/toyota-1fz-fe-engine-guide-specs-upgrades-why-its-legendary/"
    },
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#overheating"
  },
  {
   "id": "head-gasket",
   "title": "White smoke, sweet smell or coolant disappearing",
   "system": "Engine",
   "keywords": [
    "head gasket",
    "hg",
    "white smoke",
    "coolant loss",
    "milky oil",
    "sweet smell",
    "steam",
    "bubbles"
   ],
   "summary": "Head gasket failure is the 1FZ-FE's best-known weak point, especially on earlier and high-mileage trucks. Rule out the cheap external leaks first, then test properly before spending real money.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "External coolant leaks",
     "how": "Heater hoses at the back of the head and the rear heater lines leak often and can mimic coolant 'consumption'. Fix any of these first.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Oil condition",
     "how": "Milky or tan sludge on the dipstick or under the oil cap means coolant in the oil. Stop driving and diagnose.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Chemical block test",
     "how": "A combustion-leak test kit on the radiator neck detects exhaust gas in the coolant. Cheap and decisive.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Compression and leak-down",
     "how": "A low cylinder, or air bubbling into the coolant during a leak-down test, confirms the gasket and shows which cylinder.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Plan the repair",
     "how": "A head gasket job is a good time to do the heater hoses and other while-you're-in-there parts. Have the head checked for flatness at a machine shop.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine Guide: Specs, Upgrades & Why It's Legendary",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/toyota-1fz-fe-engine-guide-specs-upgrades-why-its-legendary/"
    },
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    },
    {
     "title": "FZJ80 LS Swap Guide: Cost, Pros & Cons, DIY vs Shop | 2026",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/fzj80-ls-swap-guide-cost-pros-cons-diy-vs-shop-2026/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#head-gasket"
  },
  {
   "id": "no-crank",
   "title": "Turn the key: click or nothing, engine won't crank",
   "system": "Starting & Charging",
   "keywords": [
    "no crank",
    "click",
    "won't start",
    "wont start",
    "starter",
    "dead",
    "battery",
    "solenoid",
    "contacts"
   ],
   "summary": "On high-mileage 80s the starter solenoid contacts wear out. Rule out the battery and cables first, because those are free to check.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Battery voltage",
     "how": "Resting voltage should be about 12.4 V or more. Under 12 V, charge and load-test the battery before chasing anything else.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Terminals and grounds",
     "how": "Clean and tighten both battery terminals, the engine-to-body ground strap and the starter cable. Corrosion here causes the same click.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Shift lever position",
     "how": "On automatics, try starting in Neutral. A worn neutral safety switch can block cranking in Park.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Starter solenoid contacts",
     "how": "Intermittent click with a good battery is the classic worn-contact symptom. On the 1FZ-FE the starter sits under the intake manifold, so many owners replace the contacts or starter while the intake is off for other work.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    },
    {
     "title": "Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine Guide: Specs, Upgrades & Why It's Legendary",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/toyota-1fz-fe-engine-guide-specs-upgrades-why-its-legendary/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#no-crank"
  },
  {
   "id": "crank-no-start",
   "title": "Cranks fine but won't fire",
   "system": "Fuel & Ignition",
   "keywords": [
    "crank no start",
    "cranks",
    "won't fire",
    "no start",
    "fuel pump",
    "no spark",
    "relay",
    "dies"
   ],
   "summary": "Work out whether it's missing fuel or spark. On an 80, the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay) contacts are a known cheap fix.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Check engine codes",
     "how": "1993–1995 (OBD-I): with the key on and engine off, jump TE1 and E1 in the underhood diagnostic box and count the check-engine light flashes. 1996–1997 (OBD-II): use any OBD-II scanner.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fuel pump running",
     "how": "Listen at the fuel filler for the pump when cranking. No hum points at the pump relay, fuse or pump.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fuel pump relay contacts",
     "how": "Pull and inspect the circuit opening relay. Burned contacts can be cleaned as a stopgap; replace it to fix it properly.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Spark",
     "how": "Check for spark at a plug wire with an inline tester. No spark: check the coil, igniter, distributor cap and rotor, and the related fuses.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fuel filter and pressure",
     "how": "A clogged filter or weak pump shows as hard starting and stumbling before a full no-start. Test pressure with a gauge before replacing parts.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine Guide: Specs, Upgrades & Why It's Legendary",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/toyota-1fz-fe-engine-guide-specs-upgrades-why-its-legendary/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#crank-no-start"
  },
  {
   "id": "rough-idle",
   "title": "Rough idle, hesitation or bad fuel economy",
   "system": "Fuel & Ignition",
   "keywords": [
    "rough idle",
    "hesitation",
    "stumble",
    "misfire",
    "mpg",
    "fuel economy",
    "check engine",
    "cel",
    "idle"
   ],
   "summary": "Most driveability complaints on a 25+ year-old 1FZ are tune-up items and vacuum leaks. Start with the codes.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Read codes",
     "how": "See the code-reading steps in 'Cranks fine but won't fire'. Codes narrow the search fast.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Vacuum leaks",
     "how": "Inspect PCV and vacuum hoses for cracks. Listen for hissing at idle; a smoke test finds the hidden ones.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Ignition tune-up",
     "how": "Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Old wires and a cracked cap cause misfires under load and in wet weather.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Throttle body and idle control",
     "how": "Clean carbon from the throttle body and idle air passages with throttle body cleaner. Check the idle speed against spec afterwards.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Oxygen sensors",
     "how": "Original O2 sensors on these trucks are long past their service life and cost fuel economy quietly. Check readings with a scan tool on OBD-II trucks.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota 1FZ-FE Engine Guide: Specs, Upgrades & Why It's Legendary",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/toyota-1fz-fe-engine-guide-specs-upgrades-why-its-legendary/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#rough-idle"
  },
  {
   "id": "driveline-clunk",
   "title": "Clunk on takeoff or vibration that grows with speed",
   "system": "Drivetrain",
   "keywords": [
    "clunk",
    "vibration",
    "driveshaft",
    "u-joint",
    "shudder",
    "slip yoke",
    "takeoff",
    "grease"
   ],
   "summary": "The 80's driveshafts need regular grease, and a dry slip yoke is the classic takeoff clunk. Lifted trucks also add driveline angle problems.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Grease the driveshafts",
     "how": "Grease every U-joint and the slip yokes, including the double-cardan joint where fitted. Many clunks disappear right here.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "U-joint play",
     "how": "With the truck safely supported, twist each shaft by hand. Any free play or notchiness at a joint means replacement.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Mounts and fasteners",
     "how": "Check transmission and transfer case mounts, driveshaft flange bolts and rear axle components for looseness.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Driveline angles after a lift",
     "how": "Vibration that started after a lift points at driveshaft angles. Corrections include caster or pinion correction and transfer case drop kits, depending on the setup.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Best Land Cruiser Mods for Overlanding: Recovery, Electrical & Shelter",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/best-land-cruiser-overlanding-mods/"
    },
    {
     "title": "Biggest Tires on a Stock 80 Series Land Cruiser (FZJ80)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/biggest-tires-on-a-stock-80-series-land-cruiser-fzj80/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#driveline-clunk"
  },
  {
   "id": "front-axle",
   "title": "Clicking or grinding when turning, grease on the inside of the wheel",
   "system": "Front Axle",
   "keywords": [
    "click",
    "turning",
    "birfield",
    "birf",
    "cv",
    "knuckle",
    "grease leak",
    "wheel bearing",
    "front axle"
   ],
   "summary": "The 80 has full-time 4WD, so worn birfields (the front CV joints) make noise any time you turn. Grease weeping past the knuckle seals means the front axle service is due.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Knuckle seals",
     "how": "Grease or oil smeared on the inside of the front wheels and on the knuckle balls means the seals are tired.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Wheel bearing play",
     "how": "Front end safely supported: rock the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock. Play points at bearing preload or worn bearings.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Birfield condition",
     "how": "Clicking under load in tight turns is the classic birf symptom. The joints are inspected during a full front axle rebuild.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Front axle service",
     "how": "The full service (knuckle bearings, seals, wheel bearings, birfield repack or replacement) is a standard PM item on any used 80 without records.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    },
    {
     "title": "Best Land Cruiser Mods for Overlanding: Recovery, Electrical & Shelter",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/best-land-cruiser-overlanding-mods/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#front-axle"
  },
  {
   "id": "steering-wander",
   "title": "Wandering, loose steering or front-end shimmy",
   "system": "Steering & Suspension",
   "keywords": [
    "wander",
    "death wobble",
    "shimmy",
    "loose steering",
    "play",
    "tie rod",
    "panhard",
    "steering box",
    "drifts"
   ],
   "summary": "Solid-axle steering wears in small increments that add up. Check every joint before blaming the steering box.",
   "safety": "A truck that shakes violently or won't hold a lane is unsafe. Have it inspected before driving at speed.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Tires and balance",
     "how": "Uneven wear, a bent wheel or a thrown balance weight can feel like steering problems. Check pressures and balance first.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Dry-park test",
     "how": "With a helper rocking the steering wheel engine-running, watch every joint: tie rod ends, drag link ends, the panhard rod and its bushings. Any joint that moves before the next one is worn.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Panhard rod bushings and bolts",
     "how": "Worn bushings or loose bolts let the axle shift side to side. Check bolt torque and bushing condition.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Steering box",
     "how": "Only after the joints check out: look for leaks and lash at the box. Adjustments and reseals are possible but follow the service manual.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Alignment after any lift",
     "how": "Lifted 80s need caster correction to steer properly. A lift without it often causes wander.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Best Land Cruiser Mods for Overlanding: Recovery, Electrical & Shelter",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/best-land-cruiser-overlanding-mods/"
    },
    {
     "title": "Biggest Tires on a Stock 80 Series Land Cruiser (FZJ80)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/biggest-tires-on-a-stock-80-series-land-cruiser-fzj80/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#steering-wander"
  },
  {
   "id": "lockers",
   "title": "Center diff lock or locker light stays on, or won't engage",
   "system": "Drivetrain",
   "keywords": [
    "cdl",
    "center diff",
    "diff lock",
    "locker",
    "light flashing",
    "won't engage",
    "won't disengage",
    "4wd light"
   ],
   "summary": "Locks need mechanical alignment to engage and release. Drive gently straight to let the splines line up before assuming a part failed.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Let it align",
     "how": "With the switch off, drive slowly straight forward and then in reverse a few feet. Lights that stay on while the truck binds usually clear once the gears unload.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Engagement conditions",
     "how": "Check your owner's manual for the conditions each lock needs (transfer position, center lock, speed). Lockers that 'don't work' are often just not meeting them.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fuses, switch and wiring",
     "how": "Check the related fuses and look for damaged wiring near the actuators, where trail debris and rust do their work.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Actuator",
     "how": "Actuators can stick or fail. Repair or replace after confirming power and signal reach it.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#lockers"
  },
  {
   "id": "brakes",
   "title": "Brake pedal pulses, truck pulls, or stopping feels weak",
   "system": "Brakes",
   "keywords": [
    "brakes",
    "pulsing",
    "pulls",
    "soft pedal",
    "squeal",
    "caliper",
    "rotor",
    "lspv",
    "stopping"
   ],
   "summary": "An 80 is a 5,000+ lb truck, and bigger tires make it harder to stop. Fix brake issues before any other mod.",
   "safety": "Brake problems are safety-critical. If the pedal is soft, sinks or the truck pulls hard, don't drive it until it's inspected.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Fluid level and condition",
     "how": "Low fluid means worn pads or a leak. Dark fluid is due for a flush (it absorbs moisture over time).",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Pads and rotors",
     "how": "Pulsing usually means uneven rotor deposits or runout. Check pad thickness and rotor condition at each corner.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Sticking calipers",
     "how": "A pull, a hot wheel after driving or uneven pad wear points at a sticking caliper. Rebuild or replace in axle pairs.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "LSPV after a lift",
     "how": "The load sensing proportioning valve sets rear brake bias based on ride height. A lift changes it; follow a proper adjustment procedure.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Best Land Cruiser Mods for Overlanding: Recovery, Electrical & Shelter",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/best-land-cruiser-overlanding-mods/"
    },
    {
     "title": "Biggest Tires on a Stock 80 Series Land Cruiser (FZJ80)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/biggest-tires-on-a-stock-80-series-land-cruiser-fzj80/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#brakes"
  },
  {
   "id": "abs-light",
   "title": "ABS light is on",
   "system": "Brakes",
   "keywords": [
    "abs",
    "abs light",
    "brake light",
    "sensor",
    "wheel speed"
   ],
   "summary": "On older 80s the ABS light is very often a dirty or damaged wheel speed sensor rather than the ABS unit.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Wheel speed sensors and wiring",
     "how": "Remove, clean and reinstall each sensor. Check the wiring along the axles for chafing, especially after lifts or trail damage.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Read the ABS code",
     "how": "The ABS system stores its own flash codes. The factory service manual gives the procedure for your year.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Brake fluid level",
     "how": "Low fluid can trigger warning lights too. Top up and look for the reason it was low.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#abs-light"
  },
  {
   "id": "trans",
   "title": "Automatic slips, shifts harsh or the overdrive light flashes",
   "system": "Transmission",
   "keywords": [
    "transmission",
    "slipping",
    "harsh shift",
    "od light",
    "overdrive",
    "flashing",
    "atf",
    "shift"
   ],
   "summary": "A flashing O/D OFF light means the transmission computer has stored a code. Fluid condition tells you a lot before anything else.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Fluid level and condition",
     "how": "Check hot, idling, in Park, per the dipstick marks. Burnt smell or dark fluid with debris is a warning sign.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Read the transmission code",
     "how": "A flashing O/D OFF light means a stored code. Read it per the service manual for your year before replacing parts.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Throttle cable adjustment",
     "how": "Shift timing on these automatics depends on the throttle cable adjustment. Late or harsh shifts after throttle body work point here.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Cooling when towing",
     "how": "Heat kills automatics. Frequent towing or big tires justify an auxiliary transmission cooler.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Biggest Tires on a Stock 80 Series Land Cruiser (FZJ80)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/biggest-tires-on-a-stock-80-series-land-cruiser-fzj80/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#trans"
  },
  {
   "id": "charging",
   "title": "Battery keeps dying or voltage gauge reads low",
   "system": "Starting & Charging",
   "keywords": [
    "battery dying",
    "charging",
    "alternator",
    "voltage",
    "dim lights",
    "drain",
    "dead battery"
   ],
   "summary": "Separate a charging problem from a parasitic drain. A multimeter answers both.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Charging voltage",
     "how": "Engine running, measure at the battery: roughly 13.8–14.4 V is healthy. Lower points at the alternator or belt.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Drive belt",
     "how": "Check belt tension and glazing. A slipping belt undercharges and often squeals on startup.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Alternator brushes",
     "how": "Worn brushes are a common cause of low output on high-mileage alternators and can be replaced on a rebuild.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Parasitic drain",
     "how": "Key off, meter in series on the negative cable, then pull fuses one at a time to find the circuit. Aftermarket accessories are frequent offenders.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Best Land Cruiser Mods for Overlanding: Recovery, Electrical & Shelter",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/best-land-cruiser-overlanding-mods/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#charging"
  },
  {
   "id": "water-leak",
   "title": "Water on the floor or a damp headliner",
   "system": "Body & Electrical",
   "keywords": [
    "water leak",
    "wet carpet",
    "damp",
    "sunroof",
    "headliner",
    "rain",
    "musty"
   ],
   "summary": "Clogged sunroof drains are the usual suspect on 80s with a sunroof. Check the cheap things before pulling trim.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Sunroof drains",
     "how": "Pour a little water in the sunroof channel and watch it drain under the truck. Clear slow drains with compressed air or trimmer line, gently.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Door and hatch seals",
     "how": "Look for flattened or torn weatherstrip and water trails inside the door jambs.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Windshield and body seams",
     "how": "Rust at the windshield frame or seams lets water in and gets worse with time. Inspect while you're there.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "80-Series Land Cruiser Buyer's Guide: What to Check (2026)",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/80-series-land-cruiser-buyers-guide-fzj80-what-to-check/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/#water-leak"
  }
 ],
 "source": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/",
 "usage": "Checks are ordered: run them top to bottom. difficulty is easy|medium|hard, cost is $ (under ~$50) to $$$ (shop-level job)."
}